An Evening in S.Mourtos

It was another beautiful evening and after a glass of wine sitting on deck we get ready to go out. Every evening has been really casual on this trip, wearing a t-shirt and shorts actually feels like getting dressed up after spending the day in your swimmers.

We head down to the taverna, part of a villa complex, for dinner and decide to have a cocktail or two before eating. I enjoyed a coupled of martini’s and Colin stuck with the Greek beer, Mythos.

The beach front terrace was lovely and looked to be filled with fellow sailors from our flotilla. We ordered a broccoli and cheese pie and baked feta wrapped in filo pastry with honey and sesame seeds, both were delicious and I’m definitely going to try and recreate the baked feta back home. Cheese appears to be predominate ingredient in Greece, although I did speak to a lady who was dairy intolerant and she said she’d managed to avoid it ok during her trip.

I opted for chicken with mushroom sauce and Colin went for fillet steak, medium rare. Unfortunately the steak wasn’t up to much and we ended up sharing my chicken which was really tasty. Both dinners came with chips and both commented we should have asked for salad and actually could have just had the starters with a Greek salad, it would have been more than adequate.

They bought us water melon for dessert whilst we enjoyed the sun setting behind the hills. The sky turned a beautiful pink giving an ideal photo opportunity of our yachts looking pretty in the bay. We finished dinner about 10pm, just after the sun had set.

All this sun and sailing makes you super tired so we headed back to the yacht for coffee on deck before going below to sleep.

Looking back at the restaurant from our yacht

Sivota Mourtos

Sivota looks like a really pretty place, we are moored a bay round from the main harbour and it’s either a 5 minute dingy ride (with motor) or 10 minute walk. I suggested we walk in to town to get food supplies for the morning.

We set off with just flip flops on our feet and after climbing a very steep road comment that this maybe wasn’t such a good idea, we were walking up and up and up.

I suggested to Colin we might want to turn back, it was scorching hot and both of us were regretting our choice of foot wear.

Nope, Colin said we’ve set off so we’re going. A steep road down followed the walk up and we eventually arrived at the main harbour ready for refreshment.

We bumped into some fellow sailors and they invited us to join them. They were playing bridge in a harbour front bar whilst enjoying a glass of wine.

After an hour or so of chatting we headed to the supermarket to get supplies.

We stocked up on croissants, ham, fruit, beer and wine and got a cab back to the bay with 2 of the people we had met up with. We took all the shopping back in the can whilst the others walked back. The taxi driver got upset with us as we told him the wrong place to take us back to and he had to do a big detour to get us back.

Back at the boat we unloaded the shopping and started getting ready for dinner

Heading to Paxos

I was up again early this morning, about 6.30. Parga is quite a big tourist resort so everything was coming to life early and fishing boats were going out of the area we were moored in.

We had left our dingy on the beach last night as the taxi dropped us off direct to our boat so Colin managed to drop down off the bow of the boat and rowed it back to the stern. He had originally planned to swim round but that obviously wasn’t so appealing when it came to it.

We had plenty of time before our 9.30am briefing so decided to walk round the bay to get a coffee and to see if we could find some more cold bottled water for today’s journey.

We only walked 5 minutes before we came across a mini market and then stopped on the way back at a beach front hotel for a coffee. Another couple from our flotilla arrived for coffee and they joined us and we sat discussing how great the trip was so far.

We arrived back at our boat just in time for the briefing, today we are off to Mongonisi Bay on Paxos. We were advised to be there around 2pm if we wanted to get a bow or stern too spot on the quay. Late arrivals would likely need to anchor in the bay (free swing).

After the briefing everyone seemed to be hanging around, Colin was keen to get going and was the first to radio the lead crew “Kamara, Kamara, this is Filiata, we are ready to leave”. Yorkie, the lead boat skipper loosened our bow anchor from the sand and Colin reeled it in, its electronic so that ones nice and easy. Colin then had to pull the stern anchor (kedge) in by hand as I slowly reversed out of our mooring. As soon as we started pulling out I heard everyone else start radioing to say they were good to go too.

Once out of the harbour and heading towards Paxos we put our sails up. It wasn’t very windy but we managed to do some tacking but the wind was directly in front of us and we didn’t seem to be making much progress. A passing yacht made a gesture as to blow into our sails as they motored passed us. We left our genoa sail up and put the engine on to help us along. The wind did pick up slightly as we got further out in the channel towards Paxos but not enough to turn the engine off.

As we approached Mongonisi I said to Colin we hadn’t seen Kamara, our lead boat, who would be directing us how to dock. I looked round to see them motoring towards us, I knew it was them as their mast is covered in loads of colourful flags.

We slow down to let them get ahead and follow 2 more of our flotilla around the headland into a beautiful little bay. Mongonisi has a bar, taverna, shower block and a few villas dotted into the hillside. There’s no supermarket but you could walk into town in about 50 minutes, we didn’t even attempt that, it was far too hot. There’s Greek dancing tonight in the restaurant so that’s going to be interesting.

The first of our flotilla moored up quickly, the second seemed to be having a few problems as the wind was blowing them off course so they had to go back round the bay and try again. Their anchor has got caught on someone else’s so they had to untie it from the boat and let it go.

We spent about 20 minutes sitting in the bay, carefully trying to manoeuvre our boat back and forth whilst trying to dodge other yachts, day boats, paddle boards and swimmers. It starts getting a bit hairy, it’s not like you can just switch your engine off and stop in one place when you are bobbing about in the water with a wind trying to push you towards land, in a bay that is very shallow. I was keeping an eye on the depth gauge as I controlled the boat, the last thing I want to tell them is that I’ve hit a rock or sand bank.

We finally moor up, bow too, and can relax. This mooring business is probably the most stressful part of sailing, well, apart from then you’re listing so far over your think you’re going to capsize.

We tucked into our lunch, the leftovers from dinner last night, chicken, octopus, sword fish, chorizo, salad and pita bread, washed down with a beer.

Colin had a swim in the bay and I took the paddle board out, I still haven’t progressed to standing though !

We walked round to the bar to get a drink and enquire about dinner and en route bumped into Tilly, our hostie. She’d booked a table for 8pm for a group meal and said that Greek dancing would start at 9pm.

We bought a couple of tokens to use the showers, most places have been free, and after enjoying an iced coffee we headed back to our yacht to grab towels and toiletries.

On arrival at the showers, Jan, off of “Tasia” was rinsing her hair in the sink. You only get 3 minutes of running water for your 4 euros and your supposed to be able to stop and start the flow. Jan had stopped hers whilst shampooing and it hadn’t started again. Luckily the same didn’t happen to me but you try and shower with just 3 minutes of water, it’s not easy and I certainly didn’t have time to run a razor over my legs.

We headed back to get changed for dinner and sat on deck talking to the people moored next to us, who were part of a Neilson flotilla. They had spent the week around Corfu and Paxos and said they actually preferred the North Ionian, rather than the South. Remember, we were supposed to be in the South but our route was changed.

We headed to pre-dinner drinks about 7.15. Not impressed that someone had taken our step that was at the bow of our boat so we could disembark easily, not to worry though, we stole it back on our way home later.

Everyone in the bar was exchanging tales of their days sailing and talking about how much they were enjoying the trip.

We all sat at 2 long tables, the waiters obviously geared up for flotilla groups, taking orders for individual boats and swiftly delivering the food as and when it was prepared. They seem to have the process down to a fine art.

9am and the Greek dancing commences, then all of a sudden they stop and all the lights start going off. We comment that it ended a bit abruptly and then all of a sudden the dance area lights up as a Sambucca is spread over the floor and set light to. The male dancer moving across the dance floor in the flames. The evening continued with more Greek dancing with everyone up, arms around each other in one long snake of people dancing around. Followed by an array of different music where people were dancing until midnight.

Dance floor lighted ready for some Greek dancing

Heading back to the boat we picked up the steps someone had taken from our mooring and headed off to bed. But not before sitting on deck with our balloon for lights, a cup of coffee and the apple pie.

Our balloon from Parga to light up the deck at night

Night out in Parga

The flotilla punch party finished at 8pm and we jumped on a boat taxi to Parga town to hunt out some dinner.

The taxi boat seats about 30 people and whizzed through the bay and around the headland. We turn the corner and were met by a pretty town nestled in the hill side with hundreds of bars and restaurants all buzzing with tourists.

We paid our 5 euro return fare and hopped off the boat onto the quay.

Pleased we’d made the trip into town we started hunting for a restaurant for dinner. We have a bad habit of wandering around for ages looking at restaurants but decided we just needed to pick something and go for it. We found a table in a place “Restaurant Gemini” and swiftly ordered drinks.

Dinner was a mixed grill for me and mixed seafood for Colin. The food was delicious but way too much of it, in fact there was so much of it left we asked if they could box it up for us to take home. Perfect for lunch the next day.

Colin asked for the bill and also if we could take one of their candles, to light our cockpit in the evening. Not only did the waiter say yes he went and found us a new one, how very sweet of him.

I’m sure we could have wandered around all the back streets for hours, they were crammed full of gift shops, restaurants, clothings stores and many more but it was really busy and we didn’t have the energy or patience to negotiate our way around the many tourists. I spotted a bakery selling spinach and feta pie, we had it the previous year in Mykonos and it was lovely, and headed straight for it. We bought some to go with our lunch leftovers the next day.

The bakery was filled full of cakes, breads, pastries and also the freezer display units with the prettiest looking ice lollies. Colin opted for a slice of apple pie which they boxed up to take back to the boat to have with coffee later.

We picked up water, ice, yogurt and fruit from a supermarket for breakfast and grabbed a glass of wine and beer whilst waiting for the taxi to arrive to take us back to our boat.

They were selling balloons on the quay, covered in colourful lights. I’d commented earlier that we could do with some fairy lights for the boat canopy, I told Colin if they were 5 euro’s or less I was having one to light up our cockpit. They were exactly 5 euro so had to buy one.

The taxi arrived and we jumped on board. Back round the headland the way we came but this time in pitch black, I have no idea how the skipper knew where he was going but manoeuvred around the rocks with ease. Everyone on the taxi had boats moored in the bay so the taxi dropped everyone back at their own boat, manoeuvring round and locating the boats by torch light.

We had a lovely evening out but were pleased to be back on board our boat, leaving all the hustle and bustle behind us.

We had a quick cuppa before heading to bed, we decided to leave the apple pie for another day.

Shattered from what seemed like a very long day I fell into bed and was one of the few people who didn’t hear all the lead crew and younger people in the flotilla come back, trying to be quite but apparently making lots of noise, at 4am.